When I was 25, I fell in love with天主教徒who attended Mass every Sunday. This was inconvenient because I was Jewish (with an asterisk). Growing up, my family owned boxes of Christmas ornaments and not a single menorah. But in the same way that my hair was brown and my right knee hurt when I ran, I longed to celebrate the Jewish High Holidays and send my future offspring to希伯来语学校。
未经泄露的，账单和我结婚，我们很快就搬到了西雅图的工作。这就是我们如何登陆1998年的冬季夜晚，位于犹太家庭服务中心，辅导员运行我们的辅导员interfaith couplesgroup urged us to make Friday night Shabbat dinners a cornerstone of our family’s observance. “It doesn’t have to be a fancy meal,” she said. “You can light the candles and bless the wine over abox of pizza“
Bill, above all else, wanted a household that worshipped regularly and together. Plus, he was always down for pizza. So, if this was how my husband would come around to Judaism, then I could拥抱沙巴。但是，我的餐桌上没有多米诺骨牌。上升到我想象的是应该是一个神圣的时刻，我烤牛腩。我在雪松木板上烤了鲑鱼。我炖鸡，两者都在骨头上。我鞭打红葡萄酒和白葡萄酒和柑橘和奶油和番茄的酱汁。我在季节蔬菜和手工面食和玉米棒子，甜蜜的蔬菜。
半年和三个小孩后来，我被筋疲力尽，准备放弃了安息日。那是我发现的时候烤鸡用两个柠檬，来自Marcella Hazan的辉煌食谱，Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking。单独的描述将读者简化为柔软的烹饪羽毛状。“如果这是一个静物，它的头衔可能是”鸡肉有两个柠檬“，”哈兰女士在介绍食谱时写道。“这就是其中的全部。没有胖子煮，没有炖煮，没有馅料准备，没有盐和胡椒除外。把鸡肉放入烤箱后，你就把它变成了一次。鸟，它的两个柠檬，烤箱都休息了。“
Actually, Victor Hazan wrote those words. He was Marcella’s husband, and her collaborator on each of her six烹饪书, including 1992’sEssentials。She scribbled down the recipes in Italian; he translated them into English and channeled her voice as he typed the accompanying instructions.
哈瓦朗斯于20世纪50年代初遇到了，当时她是意大利的家庭住宅附近的教师学院的自然科学和生物学教师。他是一个意大利犹太人who’d fled his homeland as a child, at the outbreak of World War II, and growing up in the U.S., he dreamt of the cuisine ever since. The moment he reached adulthood and saved enough money for boat fare, Victor Hazan returned to his homeland — where he promptly met Marcella.
在她去世四年后，在2017年，他告诉接受采访r about that time: “It was like being accepted into Heaven again. The seafood I had in [Marcella’s hometown of Cesenatico] … was the only seafood being caught every night out in the Adriatic by the boats… It was everything I had been thinking about coming to … It happened to coincide with a romance that was growing between me and Marcella. You couldn’t have a better combination of sensual pleasures.”
我对Victor的双胞胎侵犯不陌生。超过二十年，我相信自己以一种单向，与作者自己的一方面。我第一次爱上了马塞拉，因为当我脑子里称她为一个新婚夫妇给我看了番茄，一根黄油和洋葱的罐子如何变成最甜的面食酱汁。从她那里，我学会了与甜菜，根源和蔬菜一起做什么。她教我Frittata和意大利煨饭之间的区别，以及如何用正确的酱汁配对正确的面食形状。
但我的小孩子没有吃甜菜，或绿色。他们热情地拒绝了Frittatas和Risottos，更不用说酱汁和briskets。他们喜欢用黄油和鸡肉手指从盒子里漂亮。比尔和我 - 已经争吵了它的转弯，它是在半夜和一个孩子一起站起来，或者我们中的哪一个值得更加珍贵的“我”时间 - 向列表中增加了宗教。不像沙巴特, attending Mass, my husband observed, involved little more than simply showing up at church.
我会注意到烤鸡用柠檬一阵子。它听起来像是在盘子里的沙巴。但我以前永远不会烤了整只鸡。通过保持乳房湿润的复杂性，同时确保较慢的烹饪腿并未被曝光，我受到恐吓。幸运的是，我发现Marcella的柠檬照顾。你用桁架针戳了20次，并把它们塞进鸟的腔中。在那里，渗出果汁进行美食魔法。最终从烤箱中出现的鸟是均匀煮熟，金黄色的，并像你想象一下鸡肉应该在你的梦中品尝一下 - 有点咸，有点胡椒，触摸唐，并且基本上鸡-y。
My aim was simply to find a recipe I could manage in the time I had, but Roast Chicken with Lemons turned out to have another, nearly magical quality: everyone in the家庭喜欢它。It’s also the one dish that doesn’t bore me. “Make sure you mention,” our oldest child, Liam, said when he found out I was writing this piece, “that it’s my favorite meal.”
在过去的16年里，我们几乎每个星期五晚上都坐到烤鸡烤鸡。这道菜已经通过Hanukkahs和家居装修，罗斯·哈萨赫斯和毕业，两个酒吧Mitzvahs和毕业一个蝙蝠mitzvah。I’ve since come to grasp how that interfaith counselor, with her box of pizza, as well asMarcella and Victor Hazan- 与她的金色鸡和他的乞讨翻译 - 教我同样的课程：生活中的重要事项并不花哨或精心制作。
我现在明白了，因为我丈夫很久以前坚持，那个例行抚慰和仪式束缚。本周的加冕时刻可能是简单的像鸡皮的裂纹，烤到完美，因为它被刀子裂开。在我们祝福蜡烛，葡萄酒和葡萄酒之后发生了这一点braided challah面包，我们正在等待第一批肉体证实，是的，是的，我们在这里，我们一起制作了它。星期五再次到达。
标题图像放大e by Madina Asileva/Getty Images
